Sunday, February 17, 2013

San Cristobal de las casas



After 13 hours on a bus, we arrived in San Cristobal in the Chiapas district of Mexico. This historic colonial town feels like a step back in time and, like many cities of Mexico, is at  a decent altitude (2200m). There is a large indigenous Mayan population in the city and surrounding hills who are beautiful but mostly speak local dialects and little Spanish. We rode up to a village called Chamula in the back of a collectivo (read literally the boot of a kombi, they really pack in the fares). Here we went to church Mayan style. Their faith here is a fusion of catholicism, Mayan rituals and superstitions. They have a  cathedral with a floor of pine needles and glass boxes with wax models saints in them adorning all the walls. The service consists of lighting different candles for specific purposes; illness, fertility etcetera, while a collection of indigenous instruments play and people wave cloistering incense around. At the end a brass band played and a guy set off a bunch of giant bottle rockets. Unfortunately there are no photos from that excursion. The Mayans are very superstitious and believe that a photograph steals a part of your soul. Needless to say, the camera stayed in the bag.


This is the inside courtyard in our hostel. Called La Puerta Vieja (the old door) its an ancient colonial building in the middle of the Centro.


The street outside. All the streets are cobbled, and quite a few are pedestrian only. As all the colonial streets are narrow, most streets in Mexico are one way.


This is the Real De Guadalupe, a sort of bohemian street, full of cafes,   art shops, trendy world people and kids trying to sell trinkets to them. There is actually a variety of good local coffee here, as opposed to nescafe like elsewhere in Mexico.


The local markets are unreal. Vibrant and colourful. A huge bag of fruit and vegies cost us about 30 pesos ($2.50).


In Mexico, If your car runs under its own power, after a push start, its considered roadworthy. At least that's what it seems like.


I've never seen so many kinds of beans. I guess you want some variety when they accompany every meal.


This is San Cristobal's Guadeloupe church. There seems to be one in every city. There are churches everywhere and they seem to run services all day, every day.


They take fence jumpers very seriously. I liked the colours in this fence. Its actually a really common sight to see yards walled in with cement topped with broken glass. Mexican ingenuity. 

I'm actually writing from San Pedro in Guatemala after we managed to find our way across the border and through the Guatemalan mountains to Lake Atitlan yesterday, but that's a whole other story. Bye...

Tuesday, February 12, 2013

Puerto Escondido and Chacahua

We're writing this one from San Cristobal de las casas, probably our last stop in Mexico but this spot needs a post to itself.
We spent 2 weeks in Puerto Escondido and Chacahua. The nights were hot and the days were stifling if you weren't in the shade. We absolutely loved this part of the pacific coast. Its balmy, friendly and tropical, with raw surf and amazing food and scenery.
The first 4 nights we spent at "La Punta" in Puerto. Then we took a taxi, a collectivo, another taxi, and then a fishing dinghy out to the remote peninsula called Chacahua. Finally we came back to Puerto and stayed on the main Playa Zicatela for a few night in town, on the beach...


La Punta is a really ramshackle surf town, full of taco stands and dirt streets. Every house has reo sticking out of the roof and at least 7 dogs. Needless to say this magnificent castle really fit the scene.


Our ramshackle rooftop lounge, note obligatory reo. We made some good friends here over a few beers and tequilas, eating homemade fish tacos and watching the sunset over the sea.


My new board! Made by local shaper Ody, its a 6'3" shortboard and goes incredibly.


Photos are a bit out of sync now, but here's me checking the surf from the door of our Cabana in Chacahua.


There's mountains for miles in every direction here, but the sea mist makes them hard to capture. The beach at Chacahua is glorious.


The boat to Chacahua. Amazing bird life and mangroves. We saw a big pink bird which I pointed out to the locals. They had no idea what it was either...


The sun set over the lagoon spectacularly every night and rose in the middle of the bay.


Our favourite tacos at the aptly, though perhaps too cryptically named "Fish taco and beer" restaurant in Zicatela.


Breaky at Chacahua. Staring at the sea.


There's a man in there. Zicatela started looking good for the last two days we were there, but I'd been too sick to surf. Then Laura got sick too, doh. Zicatela is hands down the heaviest wave I've ever seen, even at only 4 foot.


Around the corner was this place, Playa Carazilillo. It was absolutely gorgeous.

We will check in next from San Cristobal, seeya.